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Post by ikbokchook on Oct 27, 2011 21:19:15 GMT 8
I have incubated recently some eggs for a friend and had an excellent fertility rate (8 out of 10) but a terrible hatch rate (there ended up being 6 fertiles at day 18, all kicking and healthy, the others suffered from me dropping one and possibly western power cutting power for 6 hours? ) Anyway, I thought it was probably my incubator, but I generally get a 90-100% hatch rate, but she has had the same hen (and roo) go broody with no success either. The chicks are still all fully formed and ready to hatch, but then nothing The only thing I can think of is nutrition, or maybe (not sure if it is or not) a pullet mother? For both options (incubator and natural) to have the same result...... I'm stumped? Any other suggestions? Is it possible for the shell to be TOO hard? Is it possible for weather conditions to affect hatches? ( I have a speckeld sussex sitting on light sussex eggs and have had the same thing in the last month - fully formed chicks, no hatch?) Ideas? Thanks in advance
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belle
Full Member
Posts: 147
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Post by belle on Oct 28, 2011 19:32:04 GMT 8
Having same trouble with duck eggs too! Had 5 out of 12 eggs hatch and out of the remainder, 4 were dead in the shell but fully formed. Even had a fly-blown one too which killed the little fella before he could escape. (eeeek!) Bad enough with a flyblown sheep. Anyone with any ideas? This weather could be part of it too, it's been a bit weird.
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Post by ikbokchook on Oct 28, 2011 20:41:31 GMT 8
Oh no! Now you're the fourth one I've found who seems to having the same problem! Poor little ducklings Would love to get to the bottom of it!
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Post by linda29 on Oct 29, 2011 15:15:14 GMT 8
Hi Jen I had the same thing happen to me. I bought back 24 eggs back from Tassie at day 18 21 we live and well western power had the power off for a while and 11 ended up hatching and the others died in the shell. This is the first time this has happened. The chicks are healthy and lively so it can't be quality of the parents it's got me stumped. Cheers Linda
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Post by jacquie on Oct 29, 2011 17:28:55 GMT 8
it soudns to me like a parent nutrition problem.............are the parents on a breeder ration or any vitamin supplements? they can have a good diet to live which is not good enough for breeding.
there needs to be a high level of vitamin b group in the eggs to hatch, and this can only be put in the egg from the mother's diet. the reason these vitamins are so important is that there is a lot of stress involved in the hatching process and the chick needs the vitamin b to enable them o hatch. lacking in vitamin b means the stress isn't coped with and the chick dies..............................which is very sad and frustrating.
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Post by bigbird on Oct 29, 2011 17:36:37 GMT 8
I am new to incubator , and have had eggs with chicks that did not hatch out , when I opened the eggs there was a lot of water in egg. On asking around it appears I have had the humidity to high in the middle week 72 percent ( hence the water ) my next lot of eggs , when I can get some in the middle week I will lower the humidity to under 50 percent and see how it go's bigbird
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Post by annieyokie on Oct 29, 2011 18:16:42 GMT 8
I'm getting good hatch rates ,Except for every set of houdan eggs I bring over .Nill hatch . I have some coloured Indian runners hatching next week that were flown in and at the moment looks like 10 goers ;)fingers crossed Some of my other eggs are flown in and they have been great . I must say though things are decidedly better since Iv switched incubators to a Cabinet (40)egg and best of all the R Com 50. We have been testing the odd bird feather at work (something we can do )and have found deficiencies in many of these birds . Problem is that quite often the diet is not lacking in the appropriate Vitamins & minerals .The birds are just not absorbing . This happens in allot of our people patients too,for many reasons some unknown but ,stress ,imbalance etc can be a few also viruses and parasites etc depleting them . Big bird I would only run your incubator on 45 %approx for the first 18 days and only 60% for day 18-21
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Post by bigbird on Oct 29, 2011 22:05:54 GMT 8
I agree with you lower my humidity and I think I will do better, many people I have met Over poultry do not increase nutrient content to the egg layers before allowing the rooster to do its job leaving them with week eggs, and then wonder why they fail bigbird
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Post by ikbokchook on Oct 29, 2011 22:13:35 GMT 8
I did think of parent nutrition, but my own chooks are given extra before collecting eggs for a hatch and 2 other friends (including the one I was hatching in the bator for) have had the same problem too - both I'm fairly certain have their chooks on excellent diets Annieyokie - any idea why the birds might not be absorbing the nutrients? Absolutley sure I've got the humidity setting right on the incubator (but it is a still air and subject to outside humdity too) but that doesn't explain the broodies? I hatched a lot 4 weeks before putting my friends batch in and had a 100% hatch rate Also, the eggs at 18 days that were alive and well was at least a week after the power was out I have put another lot of my own eggs in the bator - will be interesting to see how they go! Thanks for the feedback - hopefully whatever is going on is over! Good luck with everyone else's hatches!
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mick
Junior Member
Posts: 58
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Post by mick on Oct 29, 2011 22:46:25 GMT 8
I have a new brinsea incubator with auto humidity and the paper work is saying the humidity for waterfowl should be 45-55% going to 65% at hatching, Poultry 40-50%, It also says that late stage death is most likely humidity is too high. I don't have any probs hatching the chickens with humidity in the middle of there recommended settings. Gopt the incubator on a UPS keeps it running for a couple of hours if the power fails. The incubator will be empty in 9 days time I could hatching some of your eggs in mine if you want to see how that goes. I am in Yokine
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belle
Full Member
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Post by belle on Oct 30, 2011 9:43:54 GMT 8
Some good news on the duckling front - the girls hatched 2 batches yesterday, one has got 4 little yellow fellas and the the other has 2. Not bad for 1st time Mums. My sister-in-law said when she incubates her Jap bantams, she often has to help them out of the shell because of their short legs (not enough leverage in them) but have been told this is very risky as it can also kill the chicks. But even she said this year the shells appear to be very hard. I think I'll just stick to the old-fashioned way of incubating - under a broody chook/duck! Good luck to everyone who is trying to hatch!
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Post by ikbokchook on Oct 30, 2011 20:40:27 GMT 8
Thanks for the offer Mick, that is very kind of you I'm in Cardup though (near Byford) so a bit of a way to travel! I also have a Brinsea, my information book says the same thing Always had excellent hatches in it though, and always kept the humidity the same? I'll let the lot I have in now go and see what hatches Hooray for your ducks Belle Glad they hatched some lovely ducklings for you!!
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Post by annieyokie on Oct 30, 2011 21:31:02 GMT 8
'' Annie Yokie - any idea why the birds might not be absorbing the nutrients?'' ikbokchook --- :)There are many reasons that the nutrients are not absorbed by both People and all animals . These range from-Lack of appropriate enzymes to digest food . This is especially the case with chickens eating wheat ,they do not have enough enzymes to fully break the wheat down and extract the minerals and vits available . This is why its best to soak or sprout wheat and limit the % given . This applies to other feeds at times depending on the digestive system of the eater. Other conditions also cause absorption problems such as underlying health conditions not readily observable such as a poor function or immature pancreas ,or digestive system ,allergies (and animals do have them in a big way many of the dogs we test have wheat intolerances and chooks in some cases will be the same ). Many supplements added to feed and available on the open market may be the wrong mix ,inappropriate and or synthetic and not easily absorbed by both humans and animals . We see many people who are taking handfuls of supplements and still are unwell and test deficient . Another problem can be moulds and fungi in the body and the right balance of friendly and unfriendly bacterias .Hens need for probiotics. Often one Vit or mineral is required for the absorption of another its about balance . Other causes can be Vaccination leading to gut imbalance and parasites (not just worms but many others that can get into the blood and gut . We are all animals and people alike akin to plants Feed it well and balanced food and you get a parasite ,disease free healthy plant giving great healthy fruit . When its out of balance the leaves go yellow or drop of ,the get sick and remain small and produce little fruit or flowers . Plants are luckier than us they dont have problems with enzymes ,livers,friendly and unfriendly bacterias ,digestive systems allergies etc etc OK of my high horse now hope that gives some understanding of the complexities
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Post by ikbokchook on Nov 2, 2011 13:47:08 GMT 8
Wow! Thanks Annie Yokie! That does give me a lot to think about!
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Post by jacquie on Nov 2, 2011 19:54:39 GMT 8
which basically boils down to your original diagnosis of parent nutrition, which for whateer reason outlined by annie yokie is deficient.
the most basic approach is to look at the fundamental diet and work from there. barley and wheat cna be most challenging to ddigest,w hich is why many feeds are processed by makers to pellets, makign hte foood be ready for hte bird in an available format.
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